Descend through the layers of this fresh, complex wine like an archaeologist digging through the centuries. Start with the fresh, earthy topsoil and taste the bright minerality of red currants and clay, then dig your trowel further to find notes of dark berries and cranberries and tobacco and vanilla. Finally, at the bottom, if you listen carefully, is an ancient Roman winemaker stirring the lees of his amphorae and sending messages back through time.