The Enthusiast - October 2023
Thank you for being a member of The Glass Half Full Club. We hope you’re already enjoying this month’s selections. While you sip, read about the wines in the descriptions below, and if you really like one you can order more of it from The Cellar.
Don’t forget, you can look up past boxes in The Archive.
Autocarro Nº38, Branco
[region] Setúbal Peninsula
This fresh, lemony, clean-as-a-whistle, white wine from Setúbal, is like having a personal cooling fan while sitting on a hot Lisbon tram car in mid-July. It’s a swimming pool glinting in the afternoon sun, or maybe it’s a fresh trout jumping in a mountain stream.
Our sommelier describes it thus: intense nose with citrus notes, some flint giving a mineral touch. In the mouth, marked acidity, but not aggressive, with a note of minerality and once again with citrus notes standing out.
Pairs well with summer time.
A note about Setúbal: this region, surrounding the Sado estuary, south of Lisbon might well have been the home of viniculture in the Iberian Peninsula. The oldest grape vines ever discovered either in Spain or Portugal were found here, and date to around 2000 BCE. Today, the region’s wines range from the sweet, floral Moscatel from the Serra da Arrábida, where the steep mountain sides over the Atlantic are perfect for the grape, to the sublime, well-structured reds of low-lying Palmela. With fresh, coastal breezes and hot summers, the region offers some exquisite tasting experiences.
Check it out in The Cellar.
Terras de Lava, Tinto
[grape/vintage] Merlot, Saborinho, Syrah / 2018
[region] Açores, Ilha do Pico
We pretty much love any wine from Ilha do Pico. Something about that sulfury volcanic soil just gives their wines depth and soul. This tinto, is subtle, fresh and unpretentious. It’s the perfect guest to invite as your plus one when you want to make a good entrance. Think: casual beach bbq, autumn dinner party al fresco or, for something completely different, a stylish starter bottle at the xmas table.
Our sommelier’s thoughts: This wine has a lovely, light ruby colour. The nose is like wild berries wrapped in the subtlest of volcanic sulphur and whiffs of vanilla. In the mouth it’s surprisingly smooth and elegant with a medium body, finishing with a pleasant and long-lasting saltiness, like James Bond in the ‘70s. (Ok, we added that last bit but our sommelier approves.)
We suggest pairing this with …a picanha off the bbq, a spaghetti carbonara or a stinky, soft cheese. Though to be honest it’s bloody great all by itself.
As for Açorean wines, Ilha do Pico is truly a special terroir. The wine industry on the island (and across the Açores) is small but growing, and the local government is supporting the re-planting of historic vineyards in the rich, volcanic soils. Very worth keeping an eye on or just go there and check it out for yourself!
Check it out in The Cellar.
Vidigal “Bailado” Pinot Noir
[region] Lisboa
This pinot from Vidigal is like a hand softly caressing a cheek or a light wind in one’s hair – it’s gentle yet physical, it’s subtle and present. To be honest, it’s another damned fine wine from one of our favourite winemakers.
Our sommelier has this to say about it: Deep ruby colour with an intense aroma of blackberry, cherry and currant with hints of spice. In the mouth it has the typical pinot elegance with freshness, balanced tannins and a long, deep and pleasant finish.
We’ve tried it with picanha off the bbq (amazing), and had it with simple charcuterie plate with some strong cheeses (also jolly good). But were wondering if it would have fun with a slow roast red meat (we’re thinking goat). If you try that out, please let us know.
You might not think it if you’re stuck behind a tuk-tuk in Principe Real but the Lisbon region produces some outstanding wines. To be fair, the “Lisbon region” extends all the way up the coast past Peniche, and into the hills and valleys around Obidos and Torres Vedras. So, there’s quite a variety of microclimates and soil types, producing a range of wines, and a fair amount of experimentation and innovation.
Check it out in The Cellar.